Galactic Adventures

Happy Valley-Goose Bay to St. Lewis (the farthest east you can drive on the North American continent and mainland Canada!) to Mary’s Harbour to Port Hope Simpson.

Long stretches of wilderness, varying terrain changing from flat to hilly to almost coastal tundra, the drive is never boring. We filled up with diesel wherever we found a gas station (maybe only three across the whole stretch). We did not see many fellow travelers and often we were the only vehicle on the road for miles/kilometers. 😉

In the town of Happy Valley, the local people were warm and welcoming, going above and beyond for a stranger! We were gobsmacked by the kind young man who opened up the Happy Valley Visitor Center just for us when it was closed for the weekend. He seemed genuinely happy to pass along great tips and steer us to some fun local businesses.

Highly recommend the beautifully constructed Birch Island Boardwalk hike, a welcome break from the road! This scenic, easy 3-mile trek traverses through marshland, forest, and sandy beach - finishing along the picturesque Churchill River.

Inuit traditionally used inukshuks (stone landmarks) to mark their way on the land. You’ll see these dotting the landscape.

White Water Falls in Mary’s Harbour continues to be a favorite hike of the locals. Even though the tranquility of the area has seen the construction of a mini hydro, an airstrip, and highway, it still remains a refuge for those seeking solace in nature. “It's a place to fish or sit and and allow the roar of the waters to drown your troubles and wash them away downstream.”

After a long day of driving in the rain, we arrived in Port Hope Simpson and the sun came back!!! We gobbled the best ever cheeseburgers and fries made at Campbell Place Inn for dinner! What a welcome treat!

The frosting on the cake is the small town of Red Bay.

The local people went above and beyond to share the exciting history of their village. And what a history it is! 

The town's narrative travels back centuries, beginning with the First Nation People and forward with the Basques, French, British and European settlers. A Basque galleon, believed to be the San Juan, was discovered in the harbour, and is the best-preserved 16th century shipwreck north of the Caribbean. Red Bay now boasts UNESCO status and a National Historic Site to tell the history of Basque Whaling. The town is also home to the skeletal remains of a 16th century Bowhead Greenland Right Whale and has a rich local culture.

A very kind local, Keith, opened up the whale exhibit for us after hours because he didn’t want us to have come that far and not see it! Our new friend also shared that in 1978 when he was a 16yo student, working under the tutelage of archeologist Dr. James Tuck of Memorial University of Newfoundland, he found and exhumed a casket and Basque body on Saddle Island dating back to the 16th century! There is video footage of this in the film shown at the Whale Exhibit. We recommend the boat trip to Saddle Island; unfortunately it was shut down during our visit.

Another local told us which building to peek in to catch a glimpse of the 400 year old whaling boat, a Chalupa, that has yet to open to the public. When we got there, there were men unloading supplies and Kirby invited us in and gave us the detailed history of the recovery and restoration process! He allowed us to take photos and shared incredible stories! 

Red Bay Interpretive Center has fabulous displays. Model recreation of a Basque Whale Blubber Rendering Station on Saddle Island, model of the San Juan, and actual artifacts dating back to the Basque whalers. We had a delicious dinner of Fish and Chips at the Whalers Restaurant in Red Bay - so fresh, flaky and crisp!

We feel so fortunate to have experienced the magic of Red Bay and the Tale of a Whale!

Our last night in Labrador was spent at the Northern Light Inn in Blanc Sabon. The following day we took the 2-hour ferry ride to Barbe, Newfoundland. 

If you have time and are interested, there is a 5-day boat trip from Happy Valley/Goose Bay that will take you to the five communities of Nunatsiavut, where you can learn about the history of the Labrador Inuit. Depending on the time of year, you may see icebergs, minke whales, seals, and polar bears.

Lastly, if you’re traveling to Canada, contact your insurance company to make sure you are covered. Progressive issued us a Certificate of Insurance for Canada. Our cell phone carrier is T-Mobile and we burned through the monthly allotted 5G high speed data in just two days. You may want to get a VPN. Also, be sure to fill your prescriptions in advance.

Enjoy the journey!